Some people stick to a strict schedule for string replacement. Some people change after a certain number of playing hours. Some people decide they need new strings when their instrument just doesn't sound right. Some people just can't stop breaking strings or destroying the windings. With all the differing opinions out there, let's see if we can find some hard facts about what makes strings die.
Keep in mind that some string models are prone to different problems. I will be naming names. Through this article, I will list some common ways strings die, and what can be done about it.
Here goes! Enjoy!
Keep in mind that some string models are prone to different problems. I will be naming names. Through this article, I will list some common ways strings die, and what can be done about it.
Here goes! Enjoy!
Manner of Death #1
Core breakage
Cause: Over tuning
One of the most common things that lead string breakage is over tuning. If you take a string well over the tension for which it was designed, it can break. It's as simple as that. For those without perfect pitch, use a tuner or a piano to get the right pitches.
Cause: Some strings are just prone to that
The quality of the core material varies across string brands. Over several years of being around about 70 violins full time, I see which strings break most often, and Thomastik-Infeld strings have some of the least reliable cores. Pirastro strings are better. D'Addario strings are mostly ok.
One of the most common things that lead string breakage is over tuning. If you take a string well over the tension for which it was designed, it can break. It's as simple as that. For those without perfect pitch, use a tuner or a piano to get the right pitches.
Cause: Some strings are just prone to that
The quality of the core material varies across string brands. Over several years of being around about 70 violins full time, I see which strings break most often, and Thomastik-Infeld strings have some of the least reliable cores. Pirastro strings are better. D'Addario strings are mostly ok.
Cause: Bad nut
The nut is a high stress point for the strings. They must glide over it effortlessly when the pegs are operated. If the nut is catching the string, the peg will only tighten the length of the string in the peg box, not the resonating length of the string. When the players don't get the desired results from moving the peg they will move the peg more, still mostly just tightening the peg box, and the string breaks above the nut.
If you press on the section of the string in the peg box, the pitch of the string will go up. If the pitch stays up, you have a problem. In many cases the player can rub some graphite in the nut groves. The graphite lubricates the groove and allows the string to move more easily. Loosen one string at a time, and lubricate each groove in turn.
The grooves in the nut may sometimes be wide enough, but they do not direct the string into the peg box properly Each string goes down at a different angle, and may have to turn to one side or the other. The nut should without kinks or harsh corners gracefully guide each string to the point at which it meets the peg. The strings should be wound on the pegs in such a way that they don't have to bend much to the side. If the grooves in your nut need adjusted, visit a luthier who will take the time to do this seemingly non-critical task right.
Cause: Sharp hook on E string tuner
This really only applies to E strings here in America. Some Europeans will use loop end A strings that can be prone to this problem. With loop end strings, the hook that holds the loop can be sharp and cut right through the loop. Interestingly, cheaper hook style tuners made of lesser metal aren't as hard on the loops they hold. Softer metal doesn't form that sharp cutting edge that becomes the bane of many violinists' existences.
This problem can be mitigated by small plastic loop protectors that go on the inside of the hook. A player can also round over the edges of the hook where it holds the string. A small piece of sandpaper can do this, but be careful to not scratch or damage anything else. Don't say I didn't warn you! A qualified luthier should be willing to take the time to do this for you.
Cause: Wrong type of string adjuster
When someone wants all four of their strings to have fine tuners, many luthiers are temped to just put string adjusters in all four of the string slots. While workable, this solution is fraught with problems. In addition to the excess weight and the hazard of the arms coming down into the varnish lies a subtle detail that frighteningly many luthiers don't notice--and it can make life miserable. The string adjusters come in narrow slot and wide slot varieties. The "slot" refers to where the string goes to be held. A narrow slot is made for E strings, and a wide slot is made for the thicker A, D, and G strings. Many a luthier will shove the lower strings into a narrow slot tuner, and that can pinch the ball right off the end of the string. Having to force strings into and out of the groove is also a pain, and can be hazardous to the instrument as you twist and finagle on the tailpiece. In this illustration, you can see the difference between the narrow slot on the left, and the wide slot on the right. Narrow slot tuners can be widened by bending the hooks a bit farther apart, but that is a stop-gap solution at best.
The nut is a high stress point for the strings. They must glide over it effortlessly when the pegs are operated. If the nut is catching the string, the peg will only tighten the length of the string in the peg box, not the resonating length of the string. When the players don't get the desired results from moving the peg they will move the peg more, still mostly just tightening the peg box, and the string breaks above the nut.
If you press on the section of the string in the peg box, the pitch of the string will go up. If the pitch stays up, you have a problem. In many cases the player can rub some graphite in the nut groves. The graphite lubricates the groove and allows the string to move more easily. Loosen one string at a time, and lubricate each groove in turn.
The grooves in the nut may sometimes be wide enough, but they do not direct the string into the peg box properly Each string goes down at a different angle, and may have to turn to one side or the other. The nut should without kinks or harsh corners gracefully guide each string to the point at which it meets the peg. The strings should be wound on the pegs in such a way that they don't have to bend much to the side. If the grooves in your nut need adjusted, visit a luthier who will take the time to do this seemingly non-critical task right.
Manner of Death #2
Tailpiece end Failure
Tailpiece end Failure
Cause: Sharp hook on E string tuner
This really only applies to E strings here in America. Some Europeans will use loop end A strings that can be prone to this problem. With loop end strings, the hook that holds the loop can be sharp and cut right through the loop. Interestingly, cheaper hook style tuners made of lesser metal aren't as hard on the loops they hold. Softer metal doesn't form that sharp cutting edge that becomes the bane of many violinists' existences.
This problem can be mitigated by small plastic loop protectors that go on the inside of the hook. A player can also round over the edges of the hook where it holds the string. A small piece of sandpaper can do this, but be careful to not scratch or damage anything else. Don't say I didn't warn you! A qualified luthier should be willing to take the time to do this for you.
Cause: Wrong type of string adjuster
When someone wants all four of their strings to have fine tuners, many luthiers are temped to just put string adjusters in all four of the string slots. While workable, this solution is fraught with problems. In addition to the excess weight and the hazard of the arms coming down into the varnish lies a subtle detail that frighteningly many luthiers don't notice--and it can make life miserable. The string adjusters come in narrow slot and wide slot varieties. The "slot" refers to where the string goes to be held. A narrow slot is made for E strings, and a wide slot is made for the thicker A, D, and G strings. Many a luthier will shove the lower strings into a narrow slot tuner, and that can pinch the ball right off the end of the string. Having to force strings into and out of the groove is also a pain, and can be hazardous to the instrument as you twist and finagle on the tailpiece. In this illustration, you can see the difference between the narrow slot on the left, and the wide slot on the right. Narrow slot tuners can be widened by bending the hooks a bit farther apart, but that is a stop-gap solution at best.
Manner of Death #3
Winding Failure
Cause: Bad nut and aluminum A
As mentioned above, a nut that is not correctly adjusted can cause lots of difficulties. If you use an aluminum A string on your violin, you have another problem to watch for. Since aluminum is a light metal, it takes a lot of thinkness to make a string of proper pitch and tension. The large diameter of most aluminum A strings makes them prone to having the windings catch in the nut groove. If A strings seem to wear out and get funky really fast, check to see if there is much visible separation between the windings as the string goes over the nut. If there is, the groove could afford to be widened. I notice this problem mostly on Evah Pirazzi A strings.
Cause: Bad bridge and silver D
Just like the nut, the bridge is a high stress point for strings. Even though silver wrapped D strings are pretty skinny, they are prone to problems at the bridge. The silver is very thin and delicate, so it breaks, and you will notce a frayed end of a winding right in the area of the bridge groove. If this happens to you, a luthier can correct it by rounding the sharp edges with a tiny file. I see this problem mostly on Thomastik-Infeld Vision series strings.
Just like the nut, the bridge is a high stress point for strings. Even though silver wrapped D strings are pretty skinny, they are prone to problems at the bridge. The silver is very thin and delicate, so it breaks, and you will notce a frayed end of a winding right in the area of the bridge groove. If this happens to you, a luthier can correct it by rounding the sharp edges with a tiny file. I see this problem mostly on Thomastik-Infeld Vision series strings.
Cause: Corrosive body chemistry
Some players sweat a lot, and that sweat carries corrosive salts, acids, and other things that are pretty gross. The metal of your strings hates this stuff, and no matter what you do, it gets into your strings never to come out. You can wipe your strings off after playing, but that only goes so far. Some peoples' sweat can corrode strings so far that the windings break! No string brand is immune to this.
Some players sweat a lot, and that sweat carries corrosive salts, acids, and other things that are pretty gross. The metal of your strings hates this stuff, and no matter what you do, it gets into your strings never to come out. You can wipe your strings off after playing, but that only goes so far. Some peoples' sweat can corrode strings so far that the windings break! No string brand is immune to this.
Manner of Death #4
Wearing Out
Even when strings serve valiantly for a long time with no issues, they still wear out. The reality is that they live a tough life. Oils, grease, sweat, rosin, and other forms of dirt get into the windings, corrode the metal, and degrade the string. Strings also take a lot of tension, and they endure it even while you sleep. This stretches out the core material, which spreads the windings, and changes how the string vibrates. A stretched core also reduces the string's elasticity, which can negatively impact sound. Even when the instrument is in perfect string friendly condition, you can't escape the fact that strings get stressed at certain points, and something will give eventually. If you play a lot, and your strings are lasting 6 or more months without major issues, you're doing pretty well.
One common thing that I hear all the time is "I put these strings on and they didn't last for anything." Yes, some strings are generally known for sounding really good at the beginning and quickly dying (Pirastro Passiones, for example), but it could be that they are just the wrong strings for the instrument. Strings are different after breaking in, and if they don't match the instrument after breaking in, the player will naturally think that the strings wore out.
One common thing that I hear all the time is "I put these strings on and they didn't last for anything." Yes, some strings are generally known for sounding really good at the beginning and quickly dying (Pirastro Passiones, for example), but it could be that they are just the wrong strings for the instrument. Strings are different after breaking in, and if they don't match the instrument after breaking in, the player will naturally think that the strings wore out.
I personally keep a log of when I last changed my strings. Sometimes, when my violin sounds a bit off, it's my fault as the player. I can look at the log, and see if the strings could be worn out. Treat your strings well, and they will do the same for you. Some players can go over a year without any string changes and be fine. Others will wear them out much faster. If you see visible signs of something amiss, then it's time to replace the string. Otherwise, keep playing until your strings stop sounding right.
Have I answered the title question? Probably not. There is no definitive answer, but hopefully you as a player will know more about the life of strings and how not to make them die prematurely.
P.S. When you finish playing, only wipe your strings off where you have touched them with your left hand. Don't try to wipe the rosin off the bowing area--that makes an awful sound, and when you play again for 30 seconds, they're all covered in rosin again! Why bother?
P.P.S. I am not sponsored by any string company. Everything I've written comes from my experience. If you have a problem or a question, leave a comment, or contact me--the link is in the top bar. Bye now!
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